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Elle Decor Checks In… Milan

Milan Design Week is almost here, and the Elle Decor team is ready to hit the ground running. The annual event, which includes Salone del Mobile, includes a lineup of can’t-miss previews, presentations, and debuts. But, whether you’re heading to Milan for the whirlwind of next week, or are simply planning an upcoming vacation, you’ll want to visit the city’s acclaimed restaurants, shops, and museums. So, we asked our editors to share their favorite spots in Italy’s design capital, honed from years of experience.

Read on for the best sights to see, places to eat and drink, and shops to drop into. And if you’re planning to be in attendance this week, we’ll see you at the bar!


What to See

Museo Poldi Pezzoli
Via Manzoni, 12
Founded in 1881 by Milanese nobleman Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli, the art museum houses his personal collections of paintings, sculptures, and applied arts. Says editorial director Stellene Volandes, “The study inspired by Dante is not to be missed.”

hall of stucco...

DEA / C. BARAGGI//Getty Images

Museo Poldi Pezzoli

Triennale Milano
Viale Alemagna, 6
“Triennale Milano hosts some of the best design exhibitions in town, like a current one on Fiorucci,” says executive editor Ingrid Abramovitch. “Head to its permanent installation of Casa Lana, a 1960s home by Ettore Sottsass, then have lunch at the Terrazza Triennale with views overlooking Parco Sempione.”

Massimo de Carlo
Viale Lombardia 17
“Massimo de Carlo gallery has a wonderful contemporary program,” says Camille Okhio, senior design writer. “Bonus points for being housed in a sensitively-renovated Piero Portaluppi building from the 1930s.”

Ordet
Via Filippino Lippi, 10
“Ordet runs a rigorous contemporary art and design program out of a delightfully industrial space,” says Okhio. “A shot of espresso for your brain (the right side in particular)!”

Fondazione Luigi Rovati
Corso Venezia, 52
“Fondazione Luigi Rovati offers visitors a perfect melding of past and present,” says Okhio. “Etruscan treasures are scattered throughout their subterranean galleries, designed by Mario Cucinella Architects, and above contemporary and modern masterpieces, antique jewelry, glass and design from all eras (like a Giacometti chandelier hung perfectly in situ) fill each corner of the original 19th century palazzo.”


Where to Eat

Lunch

Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone
Via Santo Spirito, 10
Open since 1957, Il Salumaio is a Milan staple for upscale Italian food. “Especially in the courtyard,” says Volandes, “but always, really.”

Le Specialità
Via Pietro Calvi, 29
“Pizza, pizza, pizza,” says Volandes. “I never miss lunch here when I’m in Milan.” The restaurant, open for lunch and dinner, serves up Italian classics—but they’re best known for the 50 kinds of pizza on their menu.

Bar Luce
Largo Isarco, 2
An ideal day? “Culture at the Prada Foundation and then a perfect sandwich here,” says Volandes. The restaurant is located inside the Fondazione Prada and was designed by Wes Anderson.

Sant Ambroeus
Corso Giacomo Matteotti, 7
It’s hard to beat a classic. Or, as Volandes says, “A taste of home where it all began.”

The Bar at Ralph Lauren
Via Della Spiga, 5
The designer has become almost as well known for his restaurants as his clothing. And, like one of Ralph’s suits, they are perfectly executed. Volandes notes, “Delicious comfort food with a gorgeous garden in back.”

Dinner

Trattoria del Ciumbia
Via Fiori Chiari, 32
“The food at newcomer Trattoria del Ciumbia is excellent, from the agnolotti to the house signature, the fried veal chop,” says Abramovitch. “But come for the decor: what looks like the chicest restaurant in Milan, circa 1968, is a new confection by the hot hometown design team, Dimore Studio.”

The Wilde
Via dei Giardini, 16
“The Wilde is, as we’ve said, something like Milan’s answer to Soho House. With interiors by Elle Decor A-List designer Fabrizio Casiraghi, the 20,000 square-foot space actually boasts two restaurants, both of which are sure to be booked and busy all week,” says deputy editor Sean Santiago.

Giacomo Milano
Via Pasquale Sottocorno, 6
«The star at Giacomo Milano is an incredible menu of seafood pastas, but their decor is just as light and fresh. Cheery yellow and green walls, floral boiserie, and a collection of still lifes of feel classically Milanese and completely unfussy,» says Dorothy Scarborough, assistant to the editorial director. But, says Volandes, “Don’t sleep on their small bakery across the street.”


Where to drink

Coffee (and Treats)

Orsonero
Via Giuseppe Broggi, 15
“Orsonero is an incredible little spot for an espresso, with very Instagrammable interiors by David/Nicolas,” says Santiago.

Loste Café
Via Guicciardini, 3
“Loste is a cute café and bakery with great pastries,” says Santiago.

Café Cracco
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
“Cracco in the galleria,” says Volandes. “Perfect before a visit to the Duomo or before Palazzo Reale for the excellent art deco or the Leonor Fini show up now.”

MAG Gelateria
Corso Genova 24
«Fresh, fruit-forward flavors served from a delightfully retro counter keep me coming back to this small and innovative gelateria,» says Scarborough.

Bars

Bar Nico
Via Cesare Saldini, 2
“Bar Nico is a mid-century pasta factory that was converted into an industrial wine shop and bar by part-time model Chiara Pino and her partner, Riccardo Ganelli,” says Santiago. “They’ll be doing a pop-up with the Parisian restaurant Le Cornichon that I’m excited to check out.”

Bar Basso
Via Plinio, 39
“Bar Basso is where everyone goes at the end of the evening (it’s Italy so we’re talking 11pm-2am),” says Okhio. “Prepare to be suffocated while outside.”

The Bvlgari Hotel Milano
Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b
“Especially when the weather is nice and you can sit in the secret garden,” says Volandes.

Palinurobar
Via Giovanni Paisiello, 28
“Palinurobar is a chic little wine bar that’s hosted a few of my favorite people for their launches,” says Santiago. “Pull up on a bike, grab a drink, see if the music is good.”

Armani Hotel
Via Alessandro Manzoni, 31
“For the vibes and the bar snacks at Bamboo Bar,” says Volandes. “Also an excellent martini—difficult to find!”


Where to Shop

Pupi Solari
Piazza Nicolò Tommaseo
“The sweetest Milanese children’s clothing store. A visit to Milan usually ends with a trip home with precious outfits for my niece, nephew, or to welcome any new baby in my life,” says Bebe Howorth, interiors director.

Laboratorio Paravicini
Via Nerino, 8
“The most beautiful hand-painted ceramics shop is also their studio, where each and every piece is painstakingly decorated,” says market director Benjamin Reynaert.

Rossana Orlandi
Number 14, via Matteo Bandello
“There’s always something colorful going on at the sprawling design emporium Rossana Orlandi, but perhaps nothing more colorful than the eponymous proprietor, who is always on site in her oversize white vintage eyeglasses and wild outfits that scream design with a capital D,” says Abramovitch. “This is the place to find the latest ideas in home decor; Orlandi is never afraid of experimentation.”

Gioielleria Pennisi
Via Manzoni, 29
“Where Mrs. Prada shops for vintage jewels,” says Volandes, who also wrote about the store in September.

Sofia Zevi
Via Ciovasso, 19
“Sofia Zevi has some of the most refined, highest quality, small batch homewares you will find in town,” says Okhio. All housed in an intimate, surprising interior, with closets that open and close to show you each treasure on offer individually.”

Eredi Zucca
Via Bigli, 6
“Everyone knows (and rightfully loves) Buly 1803, but the historic barbershop Eredi Zucca, on Via Bigli, is another heritage brand with a space that’s as luxurious as its products and treatments,” says Santiago.

Achille Castiglioni Foundation gift shop
Piazza Castello, 27
“It’s the perfect place for a souvenir and they always have interesting, local Italian ceramicists’ work available,” says Reynaert.

Argenteria Dabbene
Largo Claudio Treves, 2
“Writer Christopher Garis turned me onto this historic silversmith’s workshop in the Brera neighborhood, which was founded in 1938,” says Abramovitch. “It’s still in the same family and the place to buy cutlery, silver trays, sterling vases studded in semiprecious stones, and boxes in jade, agate and carnelian. They will also make anything to order or engrave silver in their on-site workshop.”

The Navigli Flea Market
“Held on the last Sunday of every month this flea market lines the canals of the Naviglio Grande,” says Howorth. “You are sure to unearth a treasure here.”

Monica Castiglioni
Via Pastrengo, 4
“Jeweler Monica Castiglioni is Milanese design royalty; her father was the great industrial designer Achille Castiglioni. Her shop in the funky Isola district features her organic designs in bronze and silver, made with the lost wax technique,” says Abramovitch.

Grassi Carlo
Via Solferino, 18
“An amazing little frame shop that sells some gorgeous readymade frames—if you arrive in town early enough (and are staying long enough) you could potentially have something done custom,” says Santiago.

Pettinaroli
Via Brera, 4
“Beautiful paper and notebooks,” says Volandes. “Perfect for gifts.”

G. Lorenzi
Piazza Filippo Meda, 3
“G. Lorenzi makes homekeeping an art form: this is the place to pick up a stag antler cooking tool set (complete with wall holder), a mother-of-pearl shaving brush, or a metal-and-wood toothpaste squeezer,” says Abramovitch.


RAPID FIRE

Where to look up:

The Temple of Victory. I love a building that seems like it could only exist in a book (à la Swiss Family Robinson or The Four Story Mistake). Milan’s star-topped Temple of Victory (Tempio della Vittoria), features an octagonal tower, eight arches, and a lantern. Tucked away on a green just off a bustling university street, it is the perfect moment to pause and admire something truly unique,” says Scarborough.

the celebrations for the 4th november in milan

NurPhoto//Getty Images

The Temple of Victory

Where to sit down:

The Villa Necchi Campiglio gardens,” says Reynaert. “In April the poppies are in bloom and bursting from the floral beds that surround the cool blue pool.”

Where to walk around:

“Founded in 1776, The Brera Academy is a public school of fine arts in the heart of the historic Brera neighborhood,” says Abramovitch. “I love to wander through the labyrinthine campus, which is in a palazzo that dates to the 16th century. The building is gorgeous but just as fun is the people watching—the school’s art students are a reason the area is known as the ‘Milanese Montmartre.’”

the courtyard of brera academy, milan, lombardy, italy...

DEA / W. BUSS//Getty Images

The Brera Academy.

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