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These High Jewelry Pieces Owe Their Magic to “Animal Architecture”

How does a jeweler find the best way to showcase a selection of rare stones? For Monica Rich Kosann, whose high jewelry collection, The Jewels of Nature, uses rare Australian black and crystal opals and Mexican fire opals, the answer was hiding in plain sight. Kosann turned to the animal kingdom, using different figurative shapes as “architecture” to support the stones. “I wanted the stone to be the star,” says Kosann. “The animal then became rather architectural by design. Focusing on each creature’s inherent beauty when structuring the opal against the other gems creates something totally unique.”

A person standing at a desk with artistic supplies and decorative elements in the background.

Courtesy Monica Rich Kosann

Jewelry designer Monica Rich Kosann in her office.

“Focusing on each creature’s inherent beauty when structuring the opal against the other gems creates something totally unique.”

The six-piece collection consists of a fish, peacock, seahorse, butterfly, starfish and frog. The fish necklace sees the iridescent colors of a black opal set against rose gold and diamond pavé; a pair of asymmetrically-carved crystal opals are reimagined as butterfly wing earrings, set in yellow gold with diamonds; a fire opal with specks of orange, red, yellow and green becomes an eye-catching starfish necklace, set against yellow diamonds; and a frog ring is encrusted with gradients of tsavorites and emerald eyes.

Hand holding a gold necklace with a large opal pendant.

Pierre Roquet
Monica took an abstracted sculptural approach to the sea creatures, such as imagining an opal as the “belly” of this seahorse necklace, accented with diamonds and an emerald eye.

“Each unique piece takes on the characteristics of the animal,” says Kosann. “The wearer becomes attached [to the animal] and that’s how each opal finds its person.” So consider this the universe nudging you to heed the call of the wild—or, at least when Monica Rich Kosann beckons.

Headshot of Sean Santiago

Sean Santiago is ELLE Decor’s Deputy Editor, covering news, trends and talents in interior design, hospitality and travel, culture, and luxury shopping. Since starting his career at an interior design firm in 2011, he has gone on to cover the industry for Vogue, Architectural Digest, Sight Unseen, PIN-UP and Domino. He is the author of The Lonny Home (Weldon Owens, 2018), has produced scripted social content for brands including West Elm and Streeteasy, and is sometimes recognized on the street for his Instagram Reels series, #DanceToDecor

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